Desi joints in phoren lands

I was chatting with Preethi, my friend and partner-in-crime, about restaurants in New Jersey (where she works) and New York (where she stays). And no, I haven't got it the other way around. She told me about 'Dabbawalla' a theme restaurant in Jersey city owned by none other than our 'rolling-in-money' Sanjay Narang. For those who are not aware, Sanjay Narang is the founder of Mars Restaurants and SkyGourmet in India which was recently acquired by London-based Indian Hospitality Corporation (IHC) for $110 m. Mars, possibly the largest restaurant group in Western India, has several premium brands under its umbrella - Birdy's, Not Just Jazz By The Way, Just Around The Corner, Dosa Diner, Tendulkar's are just some of them.

Coming back to Dabbawalla, the theme is pretty obvious. A tribute to the famous six-sigma wallas of Mumbai. Preethi tells me that the walls of this swanky-looking place have pics of the dabbawallas, just as those seen in the picture below. And the waiters / waitresses actually bring a dabba to your table that contains the order you've placed. You have to then remove the food from the dabba and serve it on your plate just as you do in your college / company canteen. If I had the chance I would eat it from the dabba itself.

Dabbawalla is Mars' only international restaurant (if my research is to be believed) and it seems to me that they've taken the premium route here too. The menu card (surprisingly, most desi restaurants in US put it up on their site) prices a plate of samosas at $5.75. If you do a simple conversion that's almost Rs. 250 for two samosas! Preethi advises me to not do the quick currency math, and of course she's right, but ginger chai for $3.25 ~ Rs. 150 is just too much for me to get over.

But I'll give it to them for at least having an authentic Indian menu on the cards. Tabla, rated as the best Indian restaurant in New York, apparently "blends American and Indian styles in both its décor and cuisine". But ever heard of 'rice flaked nova scotia halibut' or 'spice crusted flank steak and brisket' being served in an Indian home? The only thing that sounds familiar in their lunch menu is the chicken tikka cobb salad for $22 and the Goan crab cake for $14 (and only cos it's got Goa in it).

But you really can't expect much when you have an American chef on board an Indian restaurant, and that too when the website clearly states the disclaimer that the food is really his take on the flavours of India. And do remember that if you want to sample his creation you need to book a month in advance please.

This small exercise, however, drilled home the fact that Indian cuisine has truly arrived on foreign shores.